The late fashion designer Karl Lagerfeld was nothing if not a recognizable persona. His monochromatic look, tailored suit, tinted glasses, and powdered ponytail helped him to become a kind of living logo for his brand. With a quick sketch, he was able to capture the look of the moment, perfectly encapsulating everything about his vision with immaculate precision. But who was Karl Lagerfeld? Who is the man behind the acclaimed fashion houses? The answer to that question may not be as easy to come by. Beyond the public facade of high-brow elegance and timely trends lies a man who valued his personal life and rarely revealed anything about himself that didn't further his brand. Even his date of birth was clouded by his own noncommittal origin story. In Karl Lagerfeld: A Life in Fashion, author Alfons Kaiser attempts to unveil the man behind some of fashion's most iconic moments.
The earliest sections of the book reveal Kaiser's deep research as he debunks many of the tall tales that Lagerfeld told about his early years. From the year of his birth (yes, he was older than he claimed to be), to the way he interacted with his family and schoolmates, it is clear that Lagerfeld embellished the story of his life to fit the narrative that he conjured for himself and his image as a designer. The reality is this. Karl was born to a family that made a name for itself in the evaporated milk business in Germany during the brink of the second world war. He wasn't particularly close with either of his parents, and he was always a bit different than the other boys his own age. It is hard to imagine Karl Lagerfeld as anything but the icon that he became. Even so, he was the last of his friend group, including Yves Saint-Laurent, to find success. Once he did find it, though, he would enjoy a rich career in the industry that spanned over half a century.
Professional accolades, friendships, and feuds scatter the pages of Kaiser's detailed biography. The sheer scope of Lagerfeld's career is placed on full display in the work, which is quite astounding considering the industry he worked in. Fashion has always been something of the moment. Styles come in and out with a regularity that can often leave designers behind. Lagerfeld's staying power and ceaseless quest for relevancy is a remarkable feat. I was struck by how different Lagerfeld's public persona was from the man he was in his private life. He fiercely guarded his privacy, only confiding in his close friends, confidants, and his romantic partner of many years. Karl seemed to have been a loyal friend who went out of his way to take care of those around him. I have a mixed response, then to this work as a whole. It isn't that the reporting on Lagerfeld's life is bad. In fact, the writing is well researched and highly empathetic. Still, I can't help but feel that parts of the work pry more into Lagerfeld's life than he would ever have wanted to be revealed. Nevertheless, the brilliance of Lagerfeld's work and the genius of the man he was is carefully portrayed in this book.
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(2022, 19)
